Heterometrus javanensis

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This is a specific care sheet for Javanese Jungle Scorpions (Heterometrus javanensis), for more in this genus see Category:Heterometrus.

Species Information Bar
Javanese Jungle Scorpion care sheet
Heterometrus javanensis
An adult Javanese Jungle scorpion.
An adult Javanese Jungle scorpion.
Scientific classification

Kingdom: Animalia

Phylum: Arthropoda

Subphylum: Chelicerata

Class: Arachnida

Subclass: Dromopoda

Order: Scorpiones

Suborder: Neoscorpiones

Family: Scorpionidae

Subfamily: Scorpioninae

Genus: Heterometrus

Species: H. javanensis


The Javanese Jungle scorpion are a large species that is found in rain forets and jungle areas. Much more difficult to obtain than the Emperor and Tanzanian Redclaw Scorpions and therefore very desirable to any self proclaimed collectors. Their stings are fairly benign, like that of a wasp sting. Very similar to the Malaysian Forest scorpion in the way they are to be looked after, both species are said to be easy to keep in groups, worth the cost and are OK for beginners.


Scorpion Information (for a more detailed Scorpion care review see Scorpion Care Sheet
Key Information Bar
Regions Found: Jungles and rainforests of Indonesia, primarily Java and surrounding islands.
Class: Primarily terrestrial
Longevity: 5-8 years in captivity and 3-7 years in the wild.
Adult Scorpion Size: 6 inches
Temperament: Relatively aggressive and territorial
Claws: Strong pedipalps
Sting Potency: Not lethal to humans - known to be slightly stronger than a bee sting
Heterometrus javanensis Housing Requirements
Scorpion Housing: Minimum 6 gallon glass tank with 3 inches of substrate
Temperature range: 24-32°C (75-90°F)
Humidity range: 55%
Special Requirements: There are no special requirements.
Heterometrus javanensis Breeding
Breeding Difficulty: Easy
Birth Size: Average of 10
Danger to Male: Low
Heterometrus javanensis Diet
A scorpions diet should consist mainly of livefood insects such as crickets, locust, butter worms, meal worms, superworms, houseflies and cockroaches.
Recommended Pet Supplies for Heterometrus javanensis

Contents

[edit] Introduction

Although the Malaysian Forest Scorpion is very similar to the Emperor Scorpion in shape and colouration, the Malaysian Forest Scorpion has a stronger sting than the Pandinus species. The sting is said to equal that of a hornet. Additionally, Malaysian Forest Scorpions are known to be more territorial, though not as aggressive as the Asian Forest Scorpion. In the wild they usually live under logs and other natural debris. They are terrestrial animals, but may burrow to some extent. In the wild, they feed primarily on insects. Their venom is only slightly toxic, although some people may be more sensitive to it then others. When threatened, they rarely use their tail to attack. Instead, they use their large pedipalp, which is quite capable of drawing blood. Malaysian Forest Scorpions found in the wild are usually more aggressive then those raised in captivity, although many quickly loose their aggressiveness if handled frequently. They can be kept in small groups, although that is not suggested.

[edit] Habitat

They can be housed in a 2.5 to 20 gallon tank, depending on how many scorpions there are. They should have a floor of at least three inches of potting soil, vermiculite, peat moss or combination, kept moist.

[edit] Temperature

The temperature requirements for Heterometrus javanensis are 24-32°C (75-90°F).

To achieve these conditions, a range of appliances are available. Specially designed heating pads for this purpose are available on the market and help to maintain consistent ambient air temperatures within the enclosure. Temperatures should be closely monitored and inspected at regular intervals, the most efficient way to do this is too have multiple thermometers located around the enclosure at different heights and locations. For example, having one at substrate level and then a further one at the highest point your scorpion has access too.

[edit] Humidity

They should be kept in a humidity environment of approximately 55%, and they will drink from a wide, shallow water dish.

To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your Javanese Jungle scorpion you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

[edit] Feeding

Adult Javanese Jungle Scorpions can be fed crickets, large insects and occasionally mice. Any uneaten food must be promptly removed from the terrarium however, because uneaten food can attract mites, which are very dangerous and stressful to the scorpion.

[edit] Breeding

The Javanese Jungle Scorpion is bred regularly in captivity. Babies grow very rapidly. A 6-month-old Javanese Jungle Scorplett can average 2.5 inches in length. This is quite striking when compared to other species, such as Hadogenes troglodytes, whose scorpletts are less than a third of the size at the same age. Malaysian Scorpions usually make good parents and do not eat their young as often as Asian Forest Scorpions.

When caring for babies keep them in a 20-gallon long terrarium if you intend to leave them with the parenting adult. This is much easier than caring for them individually. The mother will kill prey (prey must be at least the same size as the mother's claw and no more than one at a time), and feed her young scorpions while keeping them safe from over-heating or under-heating as well.

Baby Javanese Jungle Scorpions can be separated as they slowly outgrow the burrow they stay in with their mother (about three inches as long as a large amount of substrate is provided as well as a number of burrows). Also, as a note, the substrate seems healthiest for the scorpions if it is kept damp.

[edit] Ailments

Scorpions are generally quite hardy and adaptable if they are provided with the correct environment. A few signs that may indicate that your pet is not acting or feeling normal are a loss of appetite, acting listless or sluggish, having an overly swollen stomach, and missing or deformed limbs. Another problem can be an infestation of mites.

[edit] Molting

One of the most common reasons for the death in scorpions is the moult. The scorpion has a tough outer covering, a cuticle, that forms a rigid exoskeleton. All scorpions must shed their old exoskeleton and secrete a new one in order to grow, this is called the moult. Scorpions will moult from 6 to 10 times during their lifetime. This moulting process takes a lot of energy and they are very vulnerable for a couple of days after the moult until their new skin hardens. For about 24 hours prior to moulting it is not unusual for a scorpion to get quite sluggish. A difficult moult can result in lost or deformed limbs, or death. This is thought to be related to humidity levels. There can be either too much humidity or too little, depending on the species. In captivity a lot of immature scorpions die during the moulting process.

[edit] Other problems

Though many scorpions can go for long periods of time without eating, overfeeding can cause an overly swollen stomach as well as the loss of appetite, and even death. The stomach can be slightly swollen from regular eating, and this is not a problem. Another problem can be an infestation of mites. Uneaten food can attract mites, which are very dangerous and stressful to scorpions. Be sure to remove old food.

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